Puerto Plata/Café Cito. I decided to take a day trip into Puerto Plata. After the traditional stops such as the old forts, the amber museum, the town square, the shopping, etc., we decided to go a place that I had found on the Internet called Café Cito (http://www.cafecito.info).

It had been described as "A little cafe hidden away down a narrow alley in a shaded courtyard under a towering mango tree with jazz in the air and a gas grill where we prepare delicious Caribbean and Mediterranean specialties day and night."

We walked down a street, through a slit between two buildings, and entered a tiny courtyard. What we found hardly resembled the picture on the web site. It was more of a two story shack with seating for maybe 15 by my estimate (although he said he had a private party of 20 coming later). We were the only guests besides a few people carrying on with the owner, who seemed to be friends of his. The owner is a scruffy looking Canadian named Tim Hall, a 15-year ex-pat. He sat down with us and chatted for quite some time but we were in a hurry. The food took a long time. The owner does everything himself. The food was wonderful, but the atmosphere was nasty. From the rusty can napkin holder to the view of rusty rooftops of Puerto Plata to the shack-type joint we were seated in, this place needs a major fixing up. We had a good time, but wouldn’t go back and were glad to get out. I must repeat that the food was great and the owner whipped up some dipping sauces that were out of this world. And the fried vegetables were excellent. Of course, it really isn’t a restaurant. It’s the owner’s "hobby" as he calls it. Give it a visit if you favor flavor over atmosphere.

 I had to respond:

 Just a note to thank you for taking the time to write Cafe Cito's very first restaurant review. The second, actually; the first having been written by a chap who goes by the name of Ron Añejo. His review was also rightfully subjective, like yours, only he happens to enjoy the downtown, unpretentious setting, and understood that Cafe Cito is a place to relax and socialize, not for fast food, not for posturing.

His review is on my home page. I will be putting yours up too, just for balance. In the meantime, it's prominently posted at the bar for the viewing pleasure of those who come to "carry on with the owner," including all the local hotel and tourism executives, the Sub-Sec of Tourism, the proprietor of On the Waterfront Restaurant (that you so enjoyed) and other prominent eateries, owners of offshore trust companies, ex-CIA agents, financiers, diplomats, travel writers, musicians and artists, airline owners and operators, pilots and flight crew, and many other involved, progressive and successful people whose daily grind involves projecting an image and who find they can relax and be themselves with the scruffy expat that serves great food and a healthy dose of unpretentiousness at that nasty little shack called Cafe Cito.

 You're right that on the day you came the place didn't look like in the photos. That's because we just went through two months of major structural work to the historical building we occupy. Thus the downstairs patio looked like it had been ravaged by the hurricane. Meanwhile, the upstairs bar was just opened at the same time and we're still in the process of placing plants, arranging seating, painting and so on. This we’ll do over the next year or two, slowly, without the help of an interior decorator.

 You’re also right that the service is slow. That’s because we make everything fresh and, as you dutifully reported, this is reflected in the quality of the food. We are the only place in town where a retired Greek lady spends two days making moussaka with only fresh ingredients, and refuses to do any pre-preparation that would speed up delivery on the Greek salads and other dishes abundant with fresh vegetables purchased from the market in the morning.

 At Café Cito, people who want fast service usually call in their order on their cellular and we have it ready by the time they get there. On the other hand, many of our customers come without calling ahead, anticipating the pleasure of spending two or three hours eating a little at a time, chatting, listening to music and otherwise whiling away a pleasant tropical evening, far away from the normal noises that surround us here. And they know that nobody is going to be rushing them through their meal to seat the next party. Of course, in was impossible to perceive all that in your Macdonald’s like descent on Café Cito, where you had very little time to make your impressions and draw your conclusions.

 You landed upon Café Cito in the middle of building restoration and subsequently went on to publish on the internet what amounts to a permanent announcement that this place is a nasty shack. You may not like the tin roof view, but many do. And there is nothing "nasty" about Café Cito nor any of the people involved here. Nor do you have any idea as to the caliber of some of those customers that were "carrying on with the owner." Perhaps with some years under your belt, you, like them, after achieving what they have, will begin to understand and appreciate the subtler things in life.

 Of course, it is not possible for everyone to like or appreciate Café Cito, nor the attentions of the proprietor, nor the tradeoff of casual service for good food. That is why I am posting this on my site, because that last thing I want is to provide a wrong impression. But, isn’t variety what life is all about?

 Reading somebody else's review of one's own establishment makes for some strange feelings that oscillate between anger and amusement. In all fairness, after reading your entire Casa Marina review and I recognize your sincere attempt to provide useable information to people out there who want to know what to expect on a visit to Puerto Plata. This is positive. But to be a good reporter, you must look beyond your personal tastes, and if not, understand yourself enough to provide a clear point of departure for your point of view. Moreover, on a whirlwind tour such as yours it is impossible to get under the surface, to come to understand what makes things tick.

 For example, you cancelled at Jack Tar Village because it costs US$220. per person per night. Do you know what a rack rate is? Nobody pays $220. per night, unless perhaps they walk in off the street, very unusual in this destination. Do you know why it is unusual? There appears to be some research lacking behind your efforts to be a communicator.

Allow me to humbly suggest that as you pursue your writing interests, you take to heart the corresponding responsibility of doing the research that necessary to put things into proper perspective. Don’t try to size things up on a three-day trip to the north coast. What did you tell me when we talked? That you were an engineer or something, I don't quite remember. But you never mentioned being a writer. If writing is a hobby for you, as Café Cito is for me, then perhaps you should mention it in your texts, as I do on my home page.

The all-inclusive resorts such as Casa Marina and Jack Tar Village that you blatantly criticize, actually provide fabulous value for most guests, who come on very low priced charter package deals. Do you know that some people pay +/- $1,000 US dollars for a week’s vacation, all food, all drinks, water sports and endless other activities – plus the airfare from Europe – included? Do you know that this has made it possible for the huge working class segment of developed countries to afford to travel, thus giving them the opportunity to break out of their routine plus expand their own cultural horizons? Do you know that fifteen short years ago when I first came here to write a travel story for The Toronto Star that there were only two hotels in Playa Dorada and that they were pulling fishermen off the boats who had never even heard of a hamburger, in order for them to work as waiters and waitresses and bartenders? That’s how backward things were 15 years ago, yet today the Dominican Republic has more hotel rooms than all other Caribbean islands combined. By Year 2000, there will be 40,000 hotel rooms here.

 Still, however, with only 15 years experience, the Dominican Republic has yet to develop the type of personnel base that can ensure that all resorts operate with the caliber of a Hyatt or a Four Seasons or a $500 dollar per night hotel in eons-old Barbados or Bermuda. (Although if you do your research you can find top rate accommodations and pay the corresponding price.)

So what has the Dominican Republic tourism industry done? They have based their tourism offer on value, economy and mass tourism. And in fifteen short years the Dominican Republic has pulled itself out of la nada to become the destination that everybody in the Caribbean tourism industry watches. Precedents set in this dynamic environment have had a direct impact on how many other destinations in the Caribbean and Latin America do business.

 Did you know that all-inclusive resorts, even though they bring a low-income clientele, represent for the Dominican economy an employee base of some two people per hotel room, not to mention the resulting employment and income generated from all the peripheral support industries?

 The point is, all this background information has a bearing on why things are the way they are. Things are not just good or bad. They are good for some and bad for others. Thus I would beseech you to strive harder in order to bring more balance to your well-intentioned reports.

 I also invite you to pay another visit to Café Cito, at your convenience, as we both seem to share an interest in this country and what it’s all about.
 

Sincerely,
Tim Hall

And some readers wrote back:

Kudos to you for publishing a negative review on your website.  It will help deter the AR types who can't enjoy anything truly cool, while attracting those who appreciate authentic local hidden adventurous Caribbean Quality.  If you cook with the same passion that you philosophize, barhop or drive a motorcycle, I'm sure your customers are getting the better part of the deal.  Tomas

We enjoyed our visit to your roof top bar at xmas, don't agree with the negative review you received. Personally I like tin sheeting, relaxed atmospheres and friendly people. Say Hi to Sori, we will be back for a drink at Easter.  Regards, Graham & Paul from England

I read the negative review, and I offer you credit for responding, and printing it.  I don't think that one man's review would ever stop people from going to a restaraunt.  Also, at least you tell people that your restaraunt is not just a place to eat, but to sit and hang out...after all, isn't that what most of us vacationers are after? Lynn Filbert 

Congratulations for publishing the quite negative & unfair recent review of your restautant. It took cojones! Most restaurant owners
would've trashed it. I enjoyed your rebuttal a great deal; thorough, unemotional, understated. I've been eating @ Cafe Cito regularly
for a year or so. Your restaurant has had its 'up' & 'down' moments - as we all do. In my opionion, the positive, quaint, different
qualiites of the place & the caliber or the food & help far outweigh the occasional problems. Keep up the great work in 99. .. 

Dear Tim, Mai and I were most impressed with Cafe Cito and its spontaneous thus sincere style. We enjoyed the conversation and the frienship of that "scruffy" Canadian host. Yes, that salad was authentically Greek right down to the olives from Kalamata. Idem for the tsadziki and moussaka. Too bad I missed Maria, I'll just have to come back. I reviewed the review. I did not know you were so passionate. Keep it up you (and we your customers) are on to a good thing. You must be proud! Louis

That review of Jim's convinced me that your place is my kind of eatery.  :) Bob Mitchell

Wow Tim that was fascinating; both the review and the fact that you published it.  I am dying to come down - if not this year next.  Chris and I are dying to come down - and especially now that we know that there is a bar cum restaurant waiting for us with ex-CIA agents etc. etc. to chat up...any lesbian ex-CIA agents by any chance?  Mary

Tim: My wife and I just read your bad review (and good reply).  We like scruffy Canadian expats, "not so perfect" restaurants with excellent food and good company. We'll positively be there-since you said your reviewer was an engineer, as I am, I think you need a second opinion/review. See you next week. John Klinedinst. (Ed: As promised, Mr. Klinedinst did visit and wrote us his review, posted further down the page).

It must have been around the time of year that your engineer client visited your dump, when I took my family and old friends from Europe for a meal at CaféCito. Like him, my friends were wondering where I had taken them as, evading all construction rubbish, we stumbled our way to the stairs, managed to climb to the top, and found a seat. It was also their first time to look out over a sea of zinc roofs and they commented that the overhead must be low. We were early (4 p.m.) and sat around with a drink. The musicians appeared and started to set up their things, and they also came under the spell of the place, for they were in no rush either. But the food appeared (very good), the musicians finished tuning up (finally) and started to play (great), Rebecca sang, and we left - after spending a brief 5 hours. Recommendations for change :  not much  Bill Meyrink

I lived in the DR for a year in 1985 and 6 months in 1996.  I miss the life I had down there.  As you know the states can be so crazy with everyone trying to outdo the other person.  I read your "bad" review and I was reminded of the last time I was there.  I remember hearing so many people bitching about not having the conviences and quick service as they do in the US.  I have one answer for them....MIAMI BEACH!!!!  The best part about the DR is how it forces you to relax and enjoy the little things in life.  Some people just don't get it.  I am happy to see you have a successful place and I can't wait to visit next time my husband and I come down. Stephanie

Tim:
As promised, my "unbiased" opinion of your facility, based on our dinner December 26th. Anyone reading this should understand that we (my wife and I and friends) prefer local restaurants/experiences over sterile "all-inclusive" resorts (just to put this review/opinion in context). Cafe Cito is difficult to find for a tourist, which may be good in a way. Even our taxi driver made one wrong turn. We had met some new friends on the island from Canada, and they joined us for dinner, making a party of six. We represented a broad cross section of  dinner preferences, I think. None of us had been to Cafe Cito before. We all had read the menu which I printed from the web site, and were interested. Tim Hall joined us for a casual drink, suggesting wine and alternates; very casual, low key suggestions. Tim is NOT a "scruffy" Canadian (I think he shaved recently). He IS a good conversationalist.  We followed Tim's suggestions and shared Greek salad and Mousaka around the table. I'm no expert at either, but the ratings from the table were very high for both. We all had a desire for beef that night, and all six of us had Filet Mignon. Done on the grill, the filets were fantastic. Well presented with vegetables and scalloped potatos, the meal was superb. Desert for only a few takers was cheesecake with topping.  We finished the meal with some (excellent) Dominican cognac and light conversation. Overall, we spent about 3 1/2 hours enjoying dinner. Bottom line? For those who are looking for Ruth's Chris Steak House or the Outback Steakhouse with American type service and neatness, or even McDonald's for fast food, don't go here-stay in the resorts, you'll be happier. And Tim will be happier. Trust me. And that is not intended as a negative towards the resorts; they are different styles of dinner. For those of you looking for a real, "local" restaurant with no fancy promises or pretenses, this is your place. Good food, good conversation, time to enjoy a peaceful meal. Very cheap prices for top quality food. Thanks for the great dinner, Tim, and good luck with your Cafe. Unfortunately, not many non-locals will get to enjoy it; but I'm sure most of those who do find you will indeed enjoy the experience very much. John and Jan Klinedinst-Pennsylvania, Dick and Deanie Lloyd-Pennsylvania, Jim and Linda Emery-Alberta, Canada

Read what others have to say on the Cafe Cito Critics Page

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